Shoreland Homeowner's Guide to Lake Stewardship
Shoreland Homeowner's
Guide to
Congratulations on owning shoreland property in
Whether you are a full time or seasonal resident, living by the water
provides a special opportunity to participate in water-related recreation,
such as boating, swimming, or fishing; to observe wildlife in its
natural habitat; or simply enjoy the beauty of watching a sunset over
the lake and experience the serenity and sense of well-being experienced
around water and nature.
When you own shoreland you do have certain riparian (near the water) rights and privileges,
such as the right to put a dock out to a navigable depth; to take water for domestic
and agricultural purposes; and to fish, boat, hunt and swim. But, these rights must be
exercised in compliance with local rules and regulations and those of the State of
and disturbing land in the shoreland zone (within 1,320 feet of a lake or river);
removal of aquatic plants; placement of wells; and maintenance of septic systems.
These rules are in place for the benefit of your health and safety and the health of the
adjacent lake or stream.
Along with those rights also comes the responsibility to protect, improve, and enhance
the quality of the water for your enjoyment and that of future generations to come, keeping
in mind that the water itself is a public resource for everyone to enjoy. That?s called
stewardship: the individual responsibility to manage one?s life and property with
regard for the rights of others. The lake is a living ecosystem and part of the larger
ecosystem of all living plants and animals to which we also belong.
This Guide will provide you with basic information on good lake stewardship, which if practiced
by you and collectively by others around the lake and in the watershed, will keep the
lake healthy to protect your investment in shoreland property (healthy waters=higher property
values), your enjoyment of the lake, and also preserve its ecological integrity.
What We Do On the Land Matters
Water quality is primarily dependent on what happens on the land around the lake, along
the river, or within the watershed. It?s the runoff from the land, and the pollution that is
carried with it, that can determine the quality of the water. While the land activity in the
watershed?the land area that drains to a lake or stream?contributes pollution to the
lake, the shoreland zone is the lake?s first line of defense. What you and your neighbors
do?or don?t do?on your shoreland property can have a significant impact on the quality
of the lake. Managing water quality means appropriately managing the land use around
the lake to reduce the amount of pollution that enters the lake.
In this Guide, we?ll look at two primary ways you, the shoreland homeowner, can manage
your property to protect water quality. They are:
1. Curbing pollution at the source; and
2. Reducing, capturing, and cleansing runoff.
Proper lawn care, pet waste disposal, and use of household products; shoreline erosion
control; and septic system maintenance can help curb pollution. Runoff that can pick up
pollution and carry it to the lake can be reduced by minimizing hard surfaces on your
property and limiting clearing and grading. It can also be captured and cleansed so it
doesn?t reach the lake by using shoreland vegetative buffers and by redirecting it to rain
barrels and rain gardens. Let?s learn more.
Curb Pollution: Reduce
Phosphorus and Other Pollutants
Nitrogen, potash, and phosphorus are the nutrients necessary for plant growth.
Phosphorus is the key nutrient needed for aquatic plant and algae growth. When excessive
phosphorus reaches the lake, it fuels the overgrowth of aquatic plants and algae,
those microscopic organisms that give water a greenish tinge and can cause blue-green,
toxic scums along the shore. Excessive plant and algae growth decreases water clarity,
interferes with the recreational use of the lake, and diminishes oxygen for fish in the
water, generally causing declining water quality.
Natural rainfall contains high amounts of phosphorus, which we can?t control, but we can
control our own shoreland practices that can contribute phosphorous to the lake.
Excessive phosphorus can get into lakes from shoreland properties in a number of ways, including:
- excessive application to and runoff
from lawns;
- decomposition of leaves and other
plant material;
- erosion of soil, which has phosphorus
particles attached to it;
- improper human and pet waste management,
both of which contain high
amounts of phosphorus; and the
- use of household products high in
phosphorus.
One pound of phosphorus can feed the
growth of over 500 pounds of algae.
Apply Fertilizer Sparingly and and Use Zero-Phosphorus Lawn
Fertilizer?It?s the Law in
By law since 2005,
except for exemptions for new lawns or when a soil test indicates a need for phosphorus.
In much of our area, soils are naturally high in phosphorus so lawns generally don?t need extra phosphorus.
When shopping for fertilizer, buy a brand that has a middle
number of zero i.e. 22-0-15. The law did not prohibit
retailers from selling phosphorous fertilizers, and even
though most retailers are carrying more zero phosphorus
fertilizers, it?s up to you to make sure you comply with
the law.
If you have left over phosphorus fertilizer, using it on the garden is a good way to dispose of it.
Other herbicide and pesticide cautions to follow:
- Eliminate the use of fertilizers near water or wetlands.
- Before you consider fertilizing your lawn, aerate it
first and see if that improves its health.
- Use the minimum amount needed to replenish the
soil and apply at the right time of year, usually spring
and early fall. Water lightly after fertilizing to ensure
absorption by the roots before a heavy rainfall.
- Sweep fertilizer that has spilled on hard surfaces back onto the lawn to prevent runoff.
Keep lawn healthy to avoid the need for herbicide applications. When necessary,
use the least toxic and most degradable herbicide and follow directions carefully.
Never use near the lake.
- Remove dandelions and other unwanted plants from your lawn using hand-tools
instead of chemical applications. If you feel you must use a herbicide for control, do
not apply it to the whole lawn. Instead, use an applicator which allows you to direct
a small spray towards each unwanted plant.
Keep Grass Clippings, Leaves, and Washed Up
Aquatic Plant Material Out of the
Grass clipping, leaves, and aquatic plant material that wash up on shore all contain
phosphorus, which is released when the plant material decomposes. To prevent
phosphorus from getting into the lake:
- Use a mulching lawn mower and leave grass clippings on the lawn as natural
fertilizer.
- Collect and compost leaves and clippings, or haul them away from the lake to a
disposal site.
- Rake up aquatic plants, leaves, and other organic matter on the shoreland and
dispose away from the lake. Hint: It makes great mulch on the garden which can
later be worked in as a soil amendment.
- Do not burn leaves near the lake; it destroys the organic matter releasing the phosphorus,
which could be washed into the lake.
Locate Fire Pits Away from the Shoreland and Dispose of Ash
The leftover ash from burning wood is very high in phosphorus. If the fire pit is located
near the lake, rain can wash the ashes into the lake.
- Locate the fire pit at least 50 feet away from the lake; and,
- Remove ashes from the fire pit to prevent the nutrient-loaded ashes from being
blown or washed into the lake.
Properly Dispose of Pet Waste
Improper disposal of pet waste not only jeopardizes water quality, but your health as
well. Pet waste contains phosphorus and may contain disease causing organisms,
which, if washed into the water, can make it unsafe for swimming.
- Pick up pet waste in the yard or near the shore and dispose of it properly.
Use Phosphorus-free Household Products
Read labels carefully and select bio-degradable, non-phosphorus dishwashing
detergents, and reduce the use of commercial cleaners. Learn about and use natural,
non-toxic household alternatives.
Practice Low-Impact Boating
To reduce the pollution impact of motorized watercraft on the lake:
- When fueling the boat, take precautions not to overfill the fuel tank. If you do spill,
wipe it up with a rag, do not hose into the water.
- Boat slowly; motors stir up sediments releasing nutrients that can lead to
deterioration of water quality?a 50-horsepower motor operated full throttle can stir
the water column to a depth of 15 feet.
- Keep your motor well-tuned; use four-cycle motors.
- Inspect your boat and trailer to avoid transporting aquatic invasive species, like
Eurasian watermilfoil, Curlyleaf pondweed, or zebra mussels into the lake if you?ve
had your boat in another waterbody.
Curb Pollution: Inspect
and Maintain Your Septic System
Most homes in shoreland areas rely on Subsurface Sewage
Treatment Systems (SSTS), commonly known as the septic
system. Your septic system, if designed, installed, and maintained
properly, will effectively treat wastewater before it is
returned to the environment to protect public health and prevent
pollution of a nearby lake or river.
Understand How Your Septic System Works
Understanding your system is essential to proper operation
and maintenance. The basic components of most systems
are the:
_The Septic Tank receives the wastewater from the
household plumbing. In the tank, the solids are separated
from the liquid. Here, naturally occurring bacteria decomposes
food particles and human waste and the remaining
solids settle to the bottom until they are pumped out on a
regular basis. The tank will have an inspection pipe for
monitoring of the tank and a manhole for access when
pumped. The size of the tank is based on the home?s
potential water use and types of appliances installed.
When the capacity of the tank is reached the excess liquid
flows, or is pumped, over into the drainfield.
_The Soil Treatment System (drainfield), which is typically
a network of perforated pipes surrounded by small
rock and soil. The liquid, which contains pathogens (disease-
causing organisms), nutrients such as phosphorus,
and fine solids, is cleansed naturally by bacteria as it
percolates down through the soil. The design of the treatment
system (trench, mound, etc.) is based on the soil
conditions on your property, which must allow for at least
three feet of unsaturated soil for the wastewater to percolate
through for proper treatment. The correct type of
system needed for your property will be determined by a
state-licensed septic designer. Where gravity flow is not
enough to move the liquids from the tank to the soil
treatment system, pumps or lift stations are common?
this is typical with mound systems.
What Causes a Septic System to Fail?
Septic system failure is most commonly the result of:
- Improper design or installation of the system;
- Overuse of water in the home; and/or
- Improper maintenance.
When your system, or a neighbor?s system fails, untreated
wastewater could come in contact with people, causing a
public health hazard, or enter the groundwater and eventually
the lake, adding pollution that can contribute to
increased algae and plant growth.
What are the signs of a failing system?
- Sewage backup into the house or slow toilet flushing,
- Frozen pipes or soil treatment areas,
- System alarms sounding,
- Wet and/or black areas around a septic mound,
- Algal blooms and excessive plant growth in the water
near shore,
- Sewage odors indoors or outdoors,
- Water or sewage surfacing in the yard or a nearby
low spot, or
- High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in well
water tests.
If you have a problem:
-
and/or licensed septic inspector.
http://www.co.cass.mn.us/esd/esd_ists.html
- If the drainfield or household pipes are not clogged, have
the system pumped for both solids and liquids as a
temporary measure.
- If there is surface pooling of wastewater, fence off the area
to prevent contact with humans or pets.
Properly Operate and Maintain Your System
Proper operation and maintenance will extend the life of
your system for many years and prevent costly repairs.
_ Pump the Tank Regularly
Have a licensed professional pump the solids (floating
scum and sludge) that have accumulated from the septic
tank every one to three years?the more use, the more
often pumping is needed. Make sure they pump through
the manhole. While garbage disposal use is not recommended
with septic systems, pump annually if you are
using one. Failure to remove the solids can cause them to
enter the drainfield, which can result in expensive repair or
replacement. For licensed and certified septic system
maintenance services, refer to the yellow pages under
septic tanks and systems-cleaning.
If you have a problem:
-
and/or licensed septic inspector.
http://www.co.cass.mn.us/esd/esd_ists.html
- If the drainfield or household pipes are not clogged, have
the system pumped for both solids and liquids as a
temporary measure.
- If there is surface pooling of wastewater, fence off the area
to prevent contact with humans or pets.
Source:
Page 5
_ Practice Water Conservation
Too much water flowing into the tank will cause the tank to
back up and lead to ineffective treatment of wastewater. To
prevent this:
- Repair all leaky faucets, fixtures, and appliances.
- Install low water-use fixtures and appliances (especially
toilets and shower heads).
- Do not empty roof drains and sump pump water into
the septic system.
- Wash only full loads of clothing and dishes, and
spread out water use, such as laundry, throughout the
day and week. Consider front loading machines; they
use less water.
- Reduce the length of showers and the number of toilet
flushings, especially during high use periods.
- Reroute water softener discharge water out of the
septic system.
- Do not hook floor drains or drain tile into the septic
system.
_ Limit What Goes Down the Drain
- Do not put household cleaners, paint, solvents, medications,
and other chemicals down the drain.
- Limit the use of antibacterial products. As the name
suggests, they can reduce the amount of working
bacteria in the septic tank.
- Use only the recommended amounts of liquid nonphosphorus
detergents and cleaners.
- Prevent food particles, grease, lint, coffee grounds,
plastics, and other non-degradable solids from getting
into the system.
- Use single-ply toilet paper for the best decomposition.
_ Do Not Use System Additives
It is not necessary to use starters, feeders, cleaners, or
other septic additives to enhance the performance of your
system. If your system is properly maintained and operated,
it will operate at maximum performance with the use of
naturally occurring bacteria.
_ Protect Your Drainfield
Compacting or obstructing the soil over the treatment area
can cause malfunctioning of the drain field. To protect it:
- Keep heavy vehicles off the drainfield.
- Maintain vegetative cover, but do not plant trees or
shrubs on the drainfield because the roots may penetrate
and clog the distribution system.
- Mow the area, but do not fertilize or water.
- Reroute roof drains and drain tile away from the
drainfield.
Protect Your System from
Freezing in the Winter
Common causes of septic system freezing during the winter
can be lack of snow cover, extreme cold, compacted snow,
irregular use of the system, leaking plumbing fixtures, pipes
not draining properly, or a water-logged system.
What to do if the system freezes? Unplug your pump
and call a septic system professional. Do not add
antifreeze, additives, or continuously run water to try to
unthaw the system.
To prevent freezing, follow these general guidelines:
- Fix any leaking plumbing or appliances prior to winter.
- In the fall, leave the grass longer over the tank and
drainfield for better insulation.
- Add a layer of hay or straw mulch (8-12 inches) over
the pipes, tank, and soil treatment area.
- Keep ATVs and snowmobiles off the drainfield.
- Spread hot water use (laundry, showers, dishwasher)
out over the day and week. If you?ll be gone for
extended periods, consider having someone stop by
to run hot water regularly.
- High efficiency furnaces, water softeners, and iron filters
have the potential to cause problems in the winter
because of slow and/or periodic discharges of
water. For suggested precautions, see:
http://septic.umn.edu/homeowner/factsheets/furnacessoftnersironfilters.
html
- Talk with a professional before installing heat tapes or
tank heaters.
Who regulates? The design, inspection, and installation of
septic systems (SSTS) are regulated by
must be done by professionals licensed by the state. Lists
of licensed professionals and permits for septic system
installation can be obtained from the Cass County Environmental
Services Department or online at: http://septic.umn.
edu/homeowner/locatinglicensedprofessionals/index.html.
What records are required? All septic systems must
have a Certificate of Compliance indicating they meet the
Cass County SSTS requirements, sometimes referred to
as ?up-to-code.? A Certificate is good for five years from
the date of original installation, and must be renewed
every three years thereafter.
When are inspections required? If applying for a building
permit for new construction, a compliant septic system is
required. A building permit for any addition to current buildings,
including a deck or garage?attached or nonattached,
requires a current Certificate of Compliance for
the septic system. If one is not currently on record or it is
not current, an inspection of the septic system will be
required and, if the system is found to be noncompliant,
modification or replacement of the system may be necessary
before a building permit is issued.
What about property transfers? A Certificate of
Compliance is required before a title transfer can occur on
any shoreland property with a septic system. If the system
is not compliant, it must be brought into compliance, or an
agreement must be filed to update/escrow for later compliance,
before occupancy and title transfer to new owner.
Call the Cass
system requirements.
Reduce Runoff
What is runoff?
Snow melt or rainwater that does not soak into the ground and instead runs off hard surfaces
such as roofs, driveways, sidewalks, and compacted soils or washes off lawns and
steep slopes is called runoff. It is also referred to as stormwater. When runoff reaches
the lake, it can carry with it nutrients, eroded soil sediments, toxic materials, bacteria and
other pollutants that can be detrimental to water quality and fish and wildlife habitat.
Reducing runoff decreases the pollutants that can eventually reach the lake.
Managing stormwater on your property so it soaks into the ground (infiltrates) rather than
running off is the best way to reduce runoff and filter out pollutants before they reach the
lake. Hard or paved-over surfaces do not allow the absorption of water. Any green
space, including gardens, trees, shrubs or landscaping allows water to infiltrate slowly
down into the soil and roots.
Practice Good Lawn Management
Reduce the Amount of Lawn
Bringing the suburban lawn mentality to the lake has also brought more opportunities to
degrade the quality of our lakes. Limit the amount of lawn and keep as much natural
vegetation as possible, or replant natural vegetation?especially near the lake. Not only
will you reduce runoff, you?ll reduce the amount of yard work, freeing you up to recreate
instead.
Maintain a Healthy Lawn to Absorb More Water
- Mow to a height of two to three inches; mow when dry to prevent clumping. Taller
grass provides shade for better root growth, which helps with water absorption.
- Consider replacing some of the grass in your lawn area with clover, native grasses, or
other groundcovers that don?t need watering.
- If watering is necessary, water deeply, but infrequently, to encourage deep root growth.
Water with lake water. (Hint: use the nutrients in the lake to make a healthy lawn instead
of frequent fertilizer applications.) Water in the morning, not mid-day or evening.
- In hot weather, allow lawn grasses to go into a state of dormancy so that they require
less water and nutrient intake for survival. Water 1/4 to 1/2 inch every two or three
weeks to keep crowns from dehydrating beyond the point of recovery.
Maintain Natural Vegetation
Natural vegetation will naturally reduce runoff by holding back the water to provide time
for it to soak into the ground.
- When clearing your lot, minimize the removal of wooded areas, trees and low growing
shrubs. Their removal causes more rain to fall to the ground instead of landing on
leaves and branches.
- Grading large areas of land removes the natural depressions of land where water can
pond and soak in.
- Carefully landscape your yard near roads, driveways, and along the shoreline to direct
runoff away from the lake.
Make Friends With the Ice Ridge
Ice ridges are formed by the pushing action of the lake?s winter ice sheet against the
shore and can be more pronounced in years when there is little insulating snow cover.
Unless the ice ridge is impeding your use of the lake or access to your dock area, consider
making friends with the ice ridge and leave it alone. They are natural features of
lakeshore that have been forming for thousands of years. The ice ridge has many benefits
to the lake. It is a natural berm to protect the lake from runoff. Nutrients collect on the
landward side of the mound, producing fertile soil where trees and plants thrive and provide
roots systems to hold soil in place. They provide a natural form of shoreline protection.
If you want to remove an ice ridge, contact Cass County Environmental Services
before beginning work; a permit will be needed. See page 20 for specifics.
Precaution During Construction
To reduce runoff during construction projects, erosion and sediment containment is
required. If more than one acre of land is disturbed, an MPCA stormwater permit will be
required along with a stormwater management plan. Follow these temporary practices to
reduce construction runoff.
- Seed exposed areas with annual grass or mulch during long-term projects where
soils will be exposed for more than a couple of weeks; for small areas of dirt piles,
cover with plastic or a tarp.
- For large exposed stockpiles close to a ditch, stream, wetland or lake, build a berm
or install a silt fence to prevent sediment runoff. Berms are typically built about 3 feet
tall at the crest and 1.5 to 2 times the height in width. Stockpile material can be used
to build the berm; then stabilize it with shredded mulch.
- Install down slope perimeter control prior to soil disturbance. A silt fence installed to
manufacturer?s specifications or a stabilized top soil berm are two options.
Reduce Runoff: Curb Erosion
Any exposed soil can be washed away with stormwater. When soil washes into the lake,
it carries with it phosphorus?the desired nutrient for weed and algae growth?along with
debris and other toxic materials that may be on the land. It causes sediment build up in
the lake; increases turbidity after rain events, which interferes with normal lake functions;
and impacts fish and wildlife habitat. Degradation to water quality is a result. Curbing the
erosion of soil will reduce pollutants reaching the lake.
Monitor Construction or Renovation Projects
Have an erosion control plan and carefully monitor all construction or renovation projects
to ensure that soil and construction materials do not runoff the exposed soils.
- Properly dispose of all construction materials each day.
- Use nontoxic, biodegradable or recycled materials.
- Wash or clean any liquid materials in-doors or directly into a container.
- Install silt fences along the shoreland to capture any sediment runoff that might
occur.
- After construction, establish vegetation right away.
- Minimize land alteration around your construction projects to take advantage of
existing soil stability.
Stabilize the Soil in Steep Areas
The erosion potential on steep slopes and bluffs can be reduced by:
- Diverting water away from steep slopes by rerouting drainpipes and gutters. If diverting
water away from the bluff is impractical, it should be routed through a non-perforated
plastic drain pipe that outlets at the very bottom of the bluff into rock drainage.
- If you need a walkway to the shore, follow the natural contours of the slope to go
across or around the slope, or use steps when a walkway must go directly up and
down a slope, but minimize destruction of natural vegetation during construction.
- Keep the moisture- and nutrient-absorbing natural vegetation on steep slopes by
limiting clearing and grading.
- Replant vegetation on barren slopes.
- Create a view corridor through the trees with selective pruning for an excellent view
while maintaining the natural trees and shrubs.
Reduce Shoreland Erosion
If your shoreland is eroding away, stabilizing the shoreland will be necessary to reduce
erosion. Possible causes may include:
- fluctuating water levels,
- increased wave or wake action, ice pushes in the spring, or
- loss of natural vegetation to hold the soil in place.
Each shoreland situation is different. Consulting shoreland landscaping professionals,
the DNR Area Hydrologist, or the Soil and Water Conservation District is encouraged to
determine the best solution for your shoreline erosion situation.
Rip rap and retaining walls are usually not the best choice for stabilizing shoreland erosion.
They can negatively impact the lake by creating an unnatural barrier between
upland areas and the shoreland environment that destroys vegetative transition areas
and eliminates critical habitat for many species. Retaining walls deflect wave energy
back to the lake instead of diffusing it, which can undercut the base of the wall and
cause increased erosion at the ends making the water more turbid. Neither rip rap or
retaining walls will prevent ice ridges from forming?rock cannot withstand the up to
30,000 pounds of ice pressure per square inch. Natural shoreline vegetation is the best
protection from both wave erosion and ice heaves, and it?s less expensive and longer
lasting.
Slow the Boat Down
Boat wakes can cause tremendous shoreland erosion, so boat slower. In shallow areas
(less than 15 feet), motor at slow-no-wake speeds (5 mph or less) to reduce the boat
wake and the consequent wave action that can erode your shoreline and other?s around
the lake. Observe all posted ?no-wake? and low-speed zones. For personal watercraft,
running at slow, no-wake speed within 150 feet of the shore is the law.
Boating slowly makes less wake, less noise, reduces pollution and is less disruptive to
wildlife and other people?plus you?ll see more and enjoy the lake longer. When running
at higher speeds, keep the motor properly trimmed to reduce noise and the boat wake.
Shoreland Alterations
are Regulated
In
paths. In Shore Impact Zone 2, the removal of 25% of trees, in a random pattern, and 100% of shrubs is permitted.
- The shore impact zone (SIZ) 1 is the distance from the ordinary high water level to one half the structure setback. This varies according to lake classification.
- The shore impact zone 2 is the distance from the SIZ 1 to the structure setback.
- The bluff impact zone includes the bluff itself and an area within 30 feet from the top and the bottom of the bluff .
A natural shoreline is a complex ecosystem that helps protect the entire lake. Preserving
or restoring your shoreline with native vegetation is the best way to reduce shoreland
erosion, protect water quality, and improve the health and diversity of shoreland and
upland birds, wildlife, and aquatic plants.
A natural shoreline is a bridge (a buffer) between two worlds?the land and water. It
reduces runoff to prevent erosion and sedimentation to the lake and intercepts nutrients
that can degrade water quality by increasing algae and aquatic
plant growth. Studies show that there can be as much as
500% more diversity of plant and animal species along a natural
shoreline compared to upland areas.
If your shoreland is already natural vegetation, congratulations?please keep it that way.
If you have lawn to the water?s edge, or very little native vegetation near the shore, consider
a natural shoreland landscaping project to restore the native vegetation by creating
a shoreland buffer zone?an area of native vegetation along the water?s edge.
Creating and maintaining a natural buffer zone along your shore does not mean your
property has to look messy, but it may mean you have to re-think what your shoreland
should look like. Buffers of native trees, flowers and shrubs can bring natural beauty to
your yard. One of the greatest benefits of establishing native vegetation is their deep
root systems that stabilize the shore from erosion and ice damage and provide an area
for rain to soak into the ground instead of running off to the lake.
Even if your neighbors are not restoring their shoreland, it is important for you to proceed
because its helps improve your property and water quality, and you can serve as a
good role model for others to follow. The individual choices by many can have cumulative
impacts on the lake and its ecosystem. Ultimately, keeping the water clean can be
far less costly than cleaning up a damaged lake, and clean waters framed by natural
vegetation often have the highest property values.
Reduce Runoff: Preserve or
Restore Native Shoreline Vegetation
A natural shoreline is a complex ecosystem that helps protect the entire lake. Preserving
or restoring your shoreline with native vegetation is the best way to reduce shoreland
erosion, protect water quality, and improve the health and diversity of shoreland and
upland birds, wildlife, and aquatic plants.
A natural shoreline is a bridge (a buffer) between two worlds?the land and water. It
reduces runoff to prevent erosion and sedimentation to the lake and intercepts nutrients
that can degrade water quality by increasing algae and aquatic
plant growth. Studies show that there can be as much as
500% more diversity of plant and animal species along a natural
shoreline compared to upland areas.
If your shoreland is already natural vegetation, congratulations?please keep it that way.
If you have lawn to the water?s edge, or very little native vegetation near the shore, consider
a natural shoreland landscaping project to restore the native vegetation by creating
a shoreland buffer zone?an area of native vegetation along the water?s edge.
Creating and maintaining a natural buffer zone along your shore does not mean your
property has to look messy, but it may mean you have to re-think what your shoreland
should look like. Buffers of native trees, flowers and shrubs can bring natural beauty to
your yard. One of the greatest benefits of establishing native vegetation is their deep
root systems that stabilize the shore from erosion and ice damage and provide an area
for rain to soak into the ground instead of running off to the lake.
Even if your neighbors are not restoring their shoreland, it is important for you to proceed
because its helps improve your property and water quality, and you can serve as a
good role model for others to follow. The individual choices by many can have cumulative
impacts on the lake and its ecosystem. Ultimately, keeping the water clean can be
far less costly than cleaning up a damaged lake, and clean waters framed by natural
vegetation often have the highest property values.
What is a shoreland buffer zone?
A buffer zone is an unmowed strip of native vegetation that
extends both lakeward and landward from the water?s
edge. A buffer zone of native plants that extends 25-50
feet landward from the shore is preferable, but even
adding a buffer as narrow as 10-15 feet can restore many
functions critical to the health of the lake that may have
been eliminated previously by sod, hard structures, or
mowing. When it comes to shoreland buffers, wider is
better for more benefits.
A shoreland buffer zone consists of:
- The shallow aquatic zone of the emergent, submerged,
and floating leaf aquatic plants that provide
food and shelter for ducks, songbirds, frogs and other
amphibians, and fish. The taller plants, like bulrush,
sedges, and cattails can reduce the energy of wave
action to minimize erosion and help maintain water
quality.
- The wetland transition zone of more water-loving
plants that bind the lake bed to the upland soils.
- The upland zone of native trees, shrubs, grasses, and
wildflowers slows rainwater running over-land, making
sediment drop out, absorbing water and nutrients, and
breaking down pollutants.
Getting Started Creating a Shoreland Buffer
Before You Start
There are a number of ways to create a shoreland buffer
depending on the characteristics of the shoreland and the
desires of the property owner. Before you decide how to
approach establishing a shoreland buffer, thoughtfully
assess your shoreline and what you want to accomplish.
- Do you have erosion problems to correct? Problems
with
like to attract?
- Consider the specific conditions at your site, including
light, moisture, orientation, and degree of slope.
- Identify soil type and the type of lake bottom (mucky,
sandy, rocky).
- Think about where you?re located on the lake ? do you
get a lot of wind and wave action, or direct sunlight for
much of the day? Shoreline revegetation is most likely
to succeed in areas that are sheltered and experience
little or moderate wave action, do not experience significant
changes in water level during the growing season,
and are not very steep.
- Also consider the different ways you use the shoreland
area and the amount of shoreland that you want to
restore. How much area is really needed for lake
access for boats and swimming? Limiting the beach
and dock area to 15-20 feet and leaving the rest of the
shoreline natural is ideal to have both the benefits of
the buffer zone while having recreational access to the
lake. Resource professionals recommend that you
maintain a shoreland buffer along 75% of the shoreline
frontage.
Next, decide how you want to establish a shoreland buffer.
Here are some options.
Don?t Mow, Let It Grow A simple, no-cost way to get
started in restoring your shoreland is to stop mowing for
the width of the desired buffer strip. Turf grasses will grow
12-24 inches before going to seed, after which seeds in
the soil will germinate and valuable native plants will begin
to appear. You can note the types of native plants and
wildflowers growing on natural shorelands around lake to
get an idea of what is likely to appear or will be suitable for
growing in your area. While the buffer is getting established,
you may need to weed out nuisance species or add
native plants for diversity, but not mowing will get you
started. Over time, shrubs and trees will naturally fill in and
provide a more diverse plant cover.
Do-It-Yourself
Many of the local nurseries and garden centers now carry native plant stock and can
recommend the best plants for your site. Plants used should be indigenous to
country and expect them to grow. The DNR website has a list of native plant suppliers
and landscapers. Consult with the regional Extension Office or a DNR Shoreland Habitat
specialist for resources. Take one of the many classes offered throughout the summer
on the basics of shoreland restoration. Professionals teaching the classes will help you
design your own project and may later be available for further consultation. Many classes
include an opportunity to participate in the planting of a restoration project to give you
experience for planting your own project.
The book Lakescaping for Wildlife and Water
Quality and the CD Restore Your
Shore are two highly recommended
resources to
get you started. Financial
assistance for your project
may be available; check with
the
Environmental Services or the
DNR Shoreland Habitat
Restoration Grant Program.
Hire a Professional
Shoreland restoration is a rapidly
growing field among landscape professionals and a
number of professional resources are available in
for recommendations from other property owners who have completed revegetation projects.
When working with a professional you should expect a detailed site analysis, a site
plan developed with you and your interests taken into consideration, and professionally
installed plantings. They may also be available for maintenance of your site as it?s getting
established. If your site has a steep slope or other unusual characteristics, getting
professional assistance will be important to the success of your project.
Maintaining Your Restored Shoreland
A shoreland restored with native vegetation should maintain itself once it is established.
Apply mulch to new planting beds to prevent soil erosion, hold moisture in the soil, and
control weeds. You may need to water and weed the first season, but once the plants
are established, they will be able to out-compete most weeds. Native species should
never be fertilized because they are adapted to the nutrient levels found in local soils,
and fertilizers and pesticides applied to areas near shore can be a threat to aquatic life
and water quality. Plants left standing in fall and winter provide seeds and shelter for
wildlife, add interest to the winter landscape, and protect the soil from wind erosion. If
some plants do not survive the first year, replant as quickly as possible to maintain a
continuous vegetative cover. As your shoreland buffer grows, you may want to trim some
tree branches or shrubs to keep your view of the lake clear while maintaining the benefits
of a natural shoreline.
Protect the Aquatic Zone
The aquatic zone is a vital part of the
shoreland buffer. Emergent vegetation
helps purify the lake by removing contaminants
and calming the water, which
allows suspended soil particles to settle
to the lake bottom. They provide shelter
and spawning areas for fish and other
wildlife and add oxygen back into the
water. If submerged aquatic plants are
interfering with swimming, clear by
hand only what is needed to provide a
small swimming area. Leave other submerged
plants in place. Any chemical
treatment of aquatic plants or the
destruction of cattails, bulrushes, or
wild rice will require a permit from the
appropriate DNR Fisheries office.
As part of your project, you may want to plant more aquatic vegetation. This will require
a permit from the DNR, but generally a permit fee is waived because this activity is
encouraged. Once planted, it may be necessary to install wave break structures to protect
young plants from wave damage until their roots are established.
Learn to identify aquatic invasive species, such as Curlyleaf pondweed and Eurasian
watermilfoil, and report any suspect plants to the DNR. These invasive species can
replace native plants that are vital to the lake ecosystem, and they create recreational
nuisances and impact water quality.
Leave Fallen Trees and Branches Alone
Unless they are interfering with your recreational access, leave trees and
branches that have fallen into the water alone. They form critical habitat
for aquatic organisms that fish and other aquatic life feed on, provide
cover from predators for small fish, and they serve as a dock for turtles,
kingfishers and other interesting wildlife. The fish and wildlife will appreciate you.
Common Plants for Shoreland Buffers
These plants are commonly used in creating shoreland buffers or are found
naturally along shorelines. There is a wide variety of other sedges and plants
native to
Aquatic Zone
Bulrush
Pickerelweed
Water shield
White and
yellow water lily
Arrowhead
Bur-reed
Wet Transition Zone
Marsh marigold
Swamp milkweed
Blue flag iris
Blue vervain
Sedges
Upland Zone
Wild rose
Little Bluestem
Wild bergamot
Black-eyed susan
Red-osier dogwood
High bush cranberry
For a
http://www.co.cass.mn.us/esd/pdfs/fact_sheets/plant_materials.pdf
Capture and Cleanse Runoff:
Manage Your Stormwater
The new way of managing rainwater (stormwater) is to get the water into the ground
near where it falls instead of letting it run off to eventually make its way to a nearby
waterbody carrying with it pollutants, chemicals, soils laden with nutrients and other
materials that can impact water quality, aquatic life, and wildlife. Learn to view rainwater
as a resource. This approach to stormwater management is called Low Impact
Development (LID).
This new way of thinking about rainwater mimics the natural water cycle and pre-development
patterns on a property, keeping the drop of water as close to where it fell in the
watershed so it can soak into the ground. This principle gets closer to the natural cycle
of 50% infiltration/10% runoff for vegetated shorelands that is discussed on page 11.
Key LID concepts include:
- Conserve: preserve native trees, vegetation, and soils, and maintain natural
drainage patterns.
- Control at the source: minimize runoff volume at the source by collecting or
directing it to vegetated areas where it can infiltrate (soak in to) the ground slowly.
- Customized Site Design: each home or commercial/industrial site can help
protect the watershed through the appropriate combination of LID techniques.
- Pollution Prevention and Maintenance: reduce pollutant loads to waterbodies and
increase efficiency and longevity of infrastructure with proper and timely maintenance.
LID uses techniques that infiltrate (soak in to the ground), filter, store, evaporate, and
detain runoff close to its source. These include the use of infiltration basins, rain gardens,
rain barrels, grassy swales, and general reduction of the amount of impervious
pavement. In addition, LID also emphasizes protecting natural areas important for water
transport and filtering, such as wetlands, streams, and vegetation buffers near water.
Remember?every part of your lot is part of a larger watershed. The degree to which
water is properly managed at the lot scale is the degree to which habitat and water quality
degradation can be minimized to the adjacent lake or river, or other waterbodies in
the watershed and groundwater can be recharged.
When Building or Altering the Landscape:
Any new development or alteration of the landscape should have site design and planning
that takes the natural vegetation and drainage patterns into consideration.
- Minimize grading and clearing. Carefully assess the property and its natural
drainage patters before designing the house and its placement on the lot.
- Keep wetlands and as much native vegetation as possible. Wetlands filter out nutrients
and native trees provide shade, filter and soak up water, and are habitat for
birds and wildlife. They require less care and can tolerate a wide range of conditions.
- Conserve the soils that will allow good infiltration of rainwater and place rain gardens
and swales in those locations.
- Slope paved surfaces toward vegetated low areas to allow water to soak in.
- Landscape with rain gardens to hold runoff on the lot and to filter rainwater and
recharge groundwater.
- Retain rooftop runoff in a rain barrel for lawn and garden watering?your garden will
love the natural nutrients.
- Combine rain gardens with grassy swales to replace curb and gutter.
- Reduce impervious surfaces. When building, construct smaller houses or building
footprints; build up rather than out. Minimize the amount of driveway, roof area, and
sidewalks. Cover worn paths that may be compacted
with mulch to absorb water. For patios and walkways,
use permeable pavers or interlocking pavers or flat
stones set in sand instead of concrete.
- Minimize or discontinue using fertilizers and herbicides.
These chemicals easily run off into lakes and
streams, triggering algae blooms and fish kills.
Assess Stormwater Management on Your
Take a look at your current landscaping and drainage patterns.
Are there locations on your property where significant
volumes of stormwater runoff are being generated? If
yes, begin thinking about how you might reduce runoff
using the techniques outlined in this Guide. Could you
move or remove what is causing the runoff or managing
the runoff using diversion, infiltration, and/or storage practices?
Are the soils on your site suitable for infiltration
stormwater management practices? In general, sandy and
gravelly soils work quite well, while soils with more than 30
percent clay or more than 40 percent silt and clay do not
infiltrate well.
Judicial Center Showcases LID Techniques
The new
three rain gardens, planted in May 2007, and other LID
techniques to infiltrate the parking lot runoff. The curb
cutouts allow rainwater and snowmelt runoff to enter this
rain garden located in the center of the Judicial Cente
parking lot.
Capture and Cleanse Runoff:
When It Rains, It Pollutes
Rain naturally contains pollutants, including phosphorus and mercury. You cannot do
much about this source of the pollution, but you can capture some rainwater and allow it
to be cleansed through natural soil processes to prevent it from running off into the lake,
where it can be detrimental to water quality.
The best way to do this is to: divert rainwater off roofs, driveways, and other hard surfaces
into rain barrels or to the lawn, or create a special garden?a rain garden?
designed to capture and clean the rainwater naturally.
Divert Rainwater Off Roofs and Driveways
Roofs of houses and other buildings, especially larger houses, and driveways comprise
most of the impervious (impermeable) surfaces. Redirect rainway flow from drain spouts,
roof gutters, and driveways onto vegetated areas and away from the lake, steep slopes,
and bluffs. There it can be captured and have time to infiltrate naturally into the soil or be
used later for watering, instead of getting to the lake.
Install a Rain Barrel
A rain barrel is any type of container used to catch water flowing from a downspout and store it for later use. The rain barrel is placed underneath a shortened downspout diverting the roof runoff into the barrel. The rain barrel has a spigot to collect the stored water for use in watering flower gardens, house plants and lawns?it?s a natural way to fertilize. Due to lack of research at this time, water collected in a rain barrel is not recommended for watering vegetable gardens. Humans and pets should not drink the stored water. Non-toxic mosquito dunks are available at garden supply stores and mail order catalogs to prevent the breeding of mosquitoes in rain barrels. Rain barrels need to be cleaned routinely during spring and summer months to reduce algae growth. During winter months, take your barrel out of operation by simply turning it upside down at the same location or storing elsewhere. Rain barrels are available from Cass County Environmental Services (ESD) for $56 plus tax. Pay at the ESD office, Courthouse,
Plant a
A rain garden is just what it sounds like?a garden to soak up rain water. It is a recessed
planting bed, shaped like a saucer or shallow bowl, designed to collect runoff from driveways,
roofs, and other hard surface or sheet flow of rain from lawns. The collected water
is then infiltrated into the ground instead of running off to the lake.
Rain gardens are planted with hardy, water-loving native perennial plants that have deep
roots, which along with the soil, work to provide a filter system to catch pollutants such
as phosphorus, oil, mercury and other heavy metals in rainwater that run into the garden
area. Rain gardens allow sediments that are carried with runoff to settle so plants can
absorb the nutrients. During a rainfall, the highest concentration of pollutants is during
the first inch, or first flush of a storm, which is retained in the rain garden.
In general, typical rain garden should be located at least 10 feet from the house and will
range from 100 to 300 square feet in size with a depth of 6 inches to 12 inches. As a
rule of thumb, one garden will handle the runoff from a hard surface that is about 10
times their size. For larger surfaces, more than one rain garden may be needed to handle
the runoff, perhaps locate one rain garden near each down spout. Rain collected will
infiltrate into the ground within a few days, sometimes even hours depending on your
soil type.
To be effective, rain gardens must be properly designed for the right shape and size to
accommodate the amount of roof, driveway, and other hard surfaces on your property as
well as your soil conditions. Plants must be used that are appropriate for your soil type
and will also tolerate standing water for up to 48 hours.
For proper design, it is recommended to consult resources to help you determine the
proper plants and dimensions. Talk with the local extension agent or a landscaping
professional knowledgeable about rain gardens. See the ?How-To? resources or do an
internet search for additional resources.
What Can I Do On My Shoreland
Property? What Permits are Required?
Who Has Regulatory Authority in the Shoreland Zone?
The shoreland zone in
river plus the near shore waters.
- For any actions in the water or on the land below the ordinary high water level
(OHWL) of a public water (lakes, rivers, streams, wetlands), check with the appropriate
Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) office for permits that may be
required.
- For any actions on the land above the OHWL (the upland areas of your property)
and within the shoreland zone, contact the appropriate county office. If located
within the boundaries of a city, contact city offices.
How do I know where the ordinary high water level (OHWL) is? For lakes and wetlands,
the OHWL is the highest water level that has been maintained for a sufficient period
of time to leave evidence on the landscape; it is not necessarily the highest place the
water has been. It is commonly that point where the natural vegetation changes from predominately
aquatic to predominantly terrestrial.
The OHWL is a reference elevation that defines the DNR's regulatory authority, and it is
used by
buildings.
If there is a question about the OHWL on your property, contact the DNR Area
Hydrologist or check with the Cass County Environmental Services.
Commonly Asked Questions about Shoreland Activities:
What are the requirements for installing a retaining wall or rip rap for erosion control?
A DNR public waters work permit is required to build a retaining wall along your
shoreline if the structure is proposed below the OHWL.
for rip rap above the OHWL. Retaining walls are discouraged, particularly on relatively
undeveloped lakes. Planting vegetation for erosion control is preferred; rip rap (coarse
stones, boulders, or rock placed against the bank or shore) may be allowed without
requiring a DNR permit if specific conditions are followed in installation. For either a
retaining wall or rip rap installation, you will need technical advice for the best success.
Contact both the DNR Area Hydrologist and the
assistance. Refer to the DNR Shoreland Alteration fact sheet.
Do I need a permit for a sand blanket or beach development?
Everyone wants a nice sandy beach area, but
trying to create a sandy beach where it has not existed
naturally may not always be successful. Before making
your decision, be aware that wave action can erode the
beach, and sand will migrate down shore, possibly damaging
fish and wildlife habitat. If the lake bottom is soft, the
sand will only sink into the muck and disappear. Sand
blankets cannot be applied over bulrush and cattails; vegetation
will constantly emerge.
Before installing a sand blanket below the OHWL, contact
the Area DNR Waters office for installation and possible
permit requirements. Refer to the DNR Shoreland
Alteration fact sheet for specifications. A permit will be
needed from Cass County Environmental Services if you
are installing a sand blanket above the OHWL.
What rules apply to docks? Docks are privately owned
structures, which are allowed to be placed in public waters
of the state to provide access to the use of the water. Dock
rules are established by the DNR to prevent the deterioration
of the lake?s ecosystem from excessive or inappropriate
dock placement. Local governments have the authority to
regulate docks;
In choosing the right dock and boat lift configuration for
your property, it is important to keep in mind that a dock is
private property placed on a public resource, and they can
have detrimental impacts on the lake. They may shade out
important aquatic plants and cause fragmentation and
destruction of important emergent and submerged aquatic
vegetation that provides habitat where fish spawn, feed,
grow, and find shelter from predators. Keep dockage
appropriately balanced between reasonable access and
resource protection. Do not use docks for activities that are
better intended for land, such as barbeques and porches.
No DNR permit is needed to install, construct, or reconstruct
a dock on shoreline if:
- The dock, not including the watercraft lift or canopy, is
not wider than 8 feet and is not combined with other
structures that create a larger structure.
- The dock is no longer than is necessary to reach navigable
water depth, is not a safety hazard, it does not
close off access for others to the lake, allows for free
flow of water under it, and is not intended for use as a
marina.
A temporary 2008 general permit allows for a modest platform
at the lake end of the dock under the following circumstances:
1) a single temporary platform up to 120
square feet measured separately from the access dock, or;
2) 170 square feet including the area of the adjacent
access dock. The access dock must be 5 feet or less in
width and is located on a lake with a classification of
General Development or Recreational Development. If a
dock exceeds these conditions, a DNR Waters permit will
be required. For more information, see ?Dock Rules? in the
Resource Section.
Can I control aquatic plants in front of my shoreline?
The removal or destruction of aquatic plants is a regulated
activity under the DNR?s Aquatic Plant Management
Program. Aquatic plants are a valuable part of the lake
system. They stabilize bottom sediments, protect water
clarity, prevent shoreline erosion and provide fish habitat.
You are encouraged to keep destruction of aquatic plants
at a minimum. Unless aquatic plants are interfering with
lake access, swimming, or other water recreation activities,
they should be left alone. If you are seeing unusually high
plant growth where it has not previously occurred, look for
possible sources of phosphorus getting into the lake from
your property that might be fueling this growth, such as
excessive runoff, a septic system, or shoreland erosion.
If management is desired, consider managing plants only
in the swimming area; it is not necessary to have the entire
shoreline devoid of submerged aquatic plants. For management,
you need to know:
_ No emergent plants can be destroyed (bulrushes, cattails,
wild rice) unless authorized by a DNR permit.
_ Submerged vegetation can be manually controlled (hand
cutting or pulling) in a area not exceeding 2,500 square
feet or wider than 50 feet along the shore or half the
width of your property, whichever is smaller; more than
that requires a permit.
_ Cut or pulled vegetation must be removed from the
water and the cleared area must remain in the same
place from year to year.
_ A permit from DNR Fisheries is needed to:
- Use any chemicals or automated mechanical devices
(such as the Crary WeedRoller, Beachgroomer or
- Use copper sulfate for swimmers itch control.
- Remove floating leaf vegetation in an area larger than
a channel 15 feet wide to open water.
- Remove or relocate a bog of any size that is free
floating or lodged elsewhere than its original location.
- Plant aquatic plants below the OHWL as part of a
shoreline restoration project. This activity is encouraged
and there is generally no permit charge.
These activities are not allowed in any circumstances:
- Excavating the lake bottom for aquatic plant control,
using lake-bottom barriers to destroy or prevent the
growth of aquatic plants,
- Removing vegetation within posted fish-spawning areas,
- Removing aquatic plants from an undeveloped shoreline,
and
- Removing aquatic plants where they do not interfere
with swimming, boating or other recreation.
If you see violations of these permit requirements, or
any other permit requirements, contact
Environmental Services if the violation is above the
OHWL, or your DNR Conservation Officer if it is below the
OHWL.
For shoreland properties within municipal boundaries,
check with the city?s Planning & Zoning office for permit
requirements. Bungo and Maple townships have
permitting authority; check with them before beginning
projects. For all other areas of
permit requirements apply in shoreland areas.
Building Permits for New Construction,
Remodeling, Decks, Garages, etc:
No permit is required for accessory structures of 150
sq.feet or less that meet setbacks and have no intended
human habitation. Permits will be required for accessory
structures of more than 150 square feet in shoreland
areas. A permit is required for a deck. For new residential
construction, check with the Cass ESD for specific parcel
requirements. No paved access in the shoreland impact
zone or filling of wetlands is allowed.
Construction in Bluff Zones:
See sidebar on page 9 for bluff requirements. Contact
Cass ESD for topographic definitions of a bluff and building
requirements.
Non-Conforming Lots and Uses
A variance may be required for projects on non-conforming
lots. Some non-conforming lots recorded before 1972 may
be buildable without a variance; check with ESD. Shoreline
buffer establishment is required in conjunction with most
shoreland variance approvals.
Boat Houses
No new boat houses are allowed in the shoreland zone.
Existing non-conforming boat houses can be replaced with
no changes in size, location, or use; contact ESD for a
permit.
Dirt Moving in the Shoreland Zone (ice ridge
removal, shoreland landscaping, etc)
Any dirt moving, including ice ridge manipulation, in the
Shore Impact Zone (SIZ) requires a permit. Contact the
ESD for specific requirements for historic ice ridges. In
general, movement of up to 50 cubic yards of soil requires
a shoreland alteration permit; movement of more than 50
cubic yards requires a conditional use permit and an engineered
plan and performance bond. Contact ESD for specific
requirements in SIZ 1 & 2.
Wetland Alterations
No wetland alternations are allowed in the SIZ. Work in
any wetland must be undertaken in accordance with the
Vegetation Alterations
See page 9 for shoreland alteration regulations. No fertilizer
application is allowed in SIZ 1 & 2. Naturally dead or
diseased trees may be removed in both zones. Removal of
emergent aquatic vegetation requires a DNR permit; see
page 19 for requirements.
Docks and Beaches
Docks must meet MN DNR requirements (see page 19)
and a 10-foot setback from the nearest lot line. They must
not block access to open water for adjacent properties and
shall be placed within permitted shoreland alternation
areas. New beaches on residential shoreland lots shall not
exceed 14 feet in width and shall be incorporated in the
lake access area. With a shoreland alternation permit, a
one-time addition of up to 10 cubic yards of sand may be
placed on existing sand beaches. Berms shall be placed
landward of all beaches to prevent erosion from runoff. If
removal of aquatic vegetation is required, contact the
DNR.
Septic Systems
See page 5 for
loans for 5 years at 3% interest are available to repair or
replace an existing non-conforming or failing septic system.
Before purchasing a shoreland property, ask these questions
and/or check with the Cass County ESD:
- Do all of the structures meet the setbacks?
- Does the parcel meet other building requirements for
the lot?
- Have all existing structures on the property been built
with a permit?
- Is the septic system in compliance with
regulations?
It is better to ask far enough in advance then to find out
later you will not be able to build what you planned.
Additional Information on
Ordinance and Permit Requirements
See the Land Use Ordinance on the County website. For
more specifics on land use topics, see fact sheets at
http://www.co.cass.mn.us/esd/esd_fact_sheets.html.
_
- Buying, clearing, or developing shoreland property.
- Building a new structure, remodeling or adding on to an existing structure.
- Installing a septic system.
- Building a boardwalk, raised path to the lake, or anything that does not meet setback requirements.
- Building or repairing any accessory structure near the shore (boat house, gazebo, storage
locker).
- Building stairways, landings, or clearing access paths in bluff areas.
- Draining, excavating, or filling a wetland anywhere in
- Any kind of dirt moving, shoreland alterations, or changing the appearance of your shoreland
building setback zone (shoreland impact zone) or near shore area by clearing, cutting, planting,
grading, or filling.
- Installing a sand blanket above the ordinary high water level.
If you are in doubt or need clarification about any activity, contact:
Environmental Services Department; 218-547-7241 cass.esd@co.cass.mn.us
Contact the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources before:
- Removing emergent vegetation (cattails, bulrushes, wild rice).
- Using chemicals to control aquatic vegetation.
- Altering a lake bed.
- Any work done below the ordinary high water level (OHWL).
- Installing any form of riprap or installing a retaining wall.
- Any land disturbance below the ordinary high water level.
References:
1 Protecting Your Waterfront Investment, Center for Land Use Education, UW Extension; 2005.
2 Shoreland Property: a guide to environmentally sound ownership; 2002; Southeast Wisconsin Fox
River Basin Partnership Team,
Natural Resources.
3 Lakescaping for Wildlife and Water Quality, State of
4
Blankets.
5 The Shoreland Stewardship Series: A fresh look at shoreland restoration; DNR FH-430-00; RP-03-
10M-50-S;
of Natural Resources and the GMU Teams, and the
6 Rain Barrel Fact Sheet,
Frequent Contact Information
Cass County Website:
www.co.cass.mn.us Click on various departments.
Courthouse, 1st Floor
MN 56484-3000 (218) 547-7241
www.co.cass.mn.us/esd/home_esd.html
Soil and Water Conservation District
(218) 547-7399
Assessor: (218) 547-7298;
Regional Extension Office:
(218) 547-7298
Boat and Water Safety: (218) 547-7329;
Permits required for rafts; $10/2 years
Extension: (218) 587-8280;
Land Commissioner: (218) 947-3338;
Sheriff: 1-800-450-COPS (2677)
For emergency, dial 911
Other Services:
Household Hazardous Waste Disposal
Station, 2 miles N of Pine River on Hwy 371. HHW
is accepted by appointment only. Call (888) 910-
2425, ext. 2. Mobile hazardous waste collections
are held in various locations during the summer.
Yard Waste:
Grass clippings, leaves, and pine needles can be
dropped off at:
- Longville:Slagle Transfer Site
- Mark's Farm and Garden,
- Walker/Hackensack Transfer Site
Tree trimmings and brush can be brought to the
Slagle and Walker/Hackensack transfer sites.
Composting is encouraged.
DNR Waters/Area Hydrologist
Michele Puchalski: (218) 308-2620
DNR/Shoreline Habitat Specialists
In Southern Cass County, contact: Heather Baird
(218) 833-8368, heather.baird@dnr.state.mn.us
Rest of
(320) 634-4573, lindy.ekola@dnr.state.mn.us
DNR Regional Fisheries/Aquatic
Plant Permits
Brainerd Fisheries (for Southern Cass):
(218) 828-2735
Conservation Officers:
Toll Free: (888) 646-6367
Walker Area:
Remer Area: Larry Francis, (218) 566-4833
Longville?temporarily vacant
Southern Cass County/Brainerd: Randy Posner,
(218) 575-2289
Turn in Poachers: (800) 652-9093
(218) 308-2100
Frequent Contact Information
Additional Resources:
Aquatic Plant Management: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/shorelandmgmt/apg/permits.html
DNR Water Permits Requirements: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/permits/water/answers.html#ohwl
Dock Rules: See ?Dock Information? at http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/index.html
Erosion Control for Home Builders: http://cleanwater.uwex.edu/pubs/storm.htm#erosion
General Shoreland Homeowner Information: www.shorelandmanagement.org
Non-Toxic Household Product Alternatives: http://www.reduce.org/toxics/index.html
Rain Barrels/Gardens:
- Constructing a rain barrel: http://www.shorelandmanagement.org/quick/easypdf/rain_barrel_const.pdf
-
-
Septic System Design and Maintenance: http://septic.umn.edu/homeowner/index.html or call 800-322-8642.
Shoreland Alterations Fact Sheets:
(Docks, Rip Rap, Sand Blankets, Ice Ridges, Lakescaping)
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/index.html; see Shoreland Management Section.
Shoreland Landscaping:
- The Water?s Edge: http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/assistance/backyard/shorelandmgmt/savewateredge.pdf
- Lakescaping for Wildlife and Water Quality: Available in bookstores or from Minnesota Bookstore, 800-
657-3757, http://www.comm.media.state.mn.us/bookstore/bookstore.asp
- Restore Your Shore CD: www.dnr.state.mn.us/restoreyourshore/index.html
-
the shore; check with your county Extension Office for a loaner copy.
- Native Plants for Sustainable Landscapes www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG7447.html
Stormwater Management:
www.pca.state.mn.us/water/stormwater/stormwater-manual.html